May 11, '08 Twin Buttes TH to Pine TH

(Click on photos to enlarge them .)

Not much to say about this segment; a lot of flat, rocky road through a pinyon - juniper forest . I did see a few deer .

Going down into Oak Spring Canyon was interesting . The trail was steep, but not dangerous . The vegetation changed to oak trees, and then cottonwoods and sycamores in the bottom . Near the bottom of the canyon was a small meadow .

Billy enjoyed the grass in the meadow .



At the bottom of the canyon

The riparian area of Oak Spring

An old water trough at Oak Spring

Climbing out of Oak Spring Canyon we saw a few more deer .

A mile or two after leaving the canyon the trail comes onto an old, unused road and passes a water pond .

No water in Pine Creek .

Now close to Pine, there are some residences near the trail .

Cross AZ Highway 87 and within 1/2 mile we were at Pine TH .



Reaching Pine TH comes to where Debbie Zinkl and I started riding last summer on our ride from Pine to Flagstaff . That adventure is also in the blog; look for Debbie's name in the blog list .

May 10, '08 Doll Baby TH to Twin Buttes TH / Hardscrabble Mesadscrabbl

(Click on a photo to enlarge it .)

Our camp was very near the East Verde River . Mature cottonwood trees and walnut trees gave much, cool shade ! But there were annoying gnats . Dick pulled his T-shirt up over his head so that his face was looking out the neck hole . Looked funny but was effective, so I did it too .

We could hear the gurgle of the shallow "river"; it was about ankle deep to knee deep .

East Verde River

the "river"

The first few miles of this segment follows a road into the LF Ranch; a ranch inside the Matzatzal Wilderness . The road climbs over a ridge where, from the top, it is possible to see the ranch to the west, and our camp from last night to the east .

LF Ranch

Looking back east toward last night's camp

First look at the LF

Looked to be an old ranch; wish I knew some of it's history ....



There were about a half dozen horses and a half dozen mules in the corral .
(enlarge this and read the sign .)



They were very curious about us too .


East Verde river crossing at the LF Ranch


Looking back across the river toward the LF Ranch


Gate into Polk Spring

Polk Spring is in a hilly country of ocotillos, prickly pear cactus, and juniper trees . Seeing a spring in such country was quite a surprise . Another surprise here, was a jungle of fig trees ! But the biggest surprise was ........ rose bushes, big ones !

Rose bushes at Polk Spring



Roses at Polk Spring . I wonder what the history is about this place ...?
A woman must have lived here; but I saw no remaining evidence of a house, or any structure .



A last look back at the LF Ranch and the Matzatzal Mountains .



Whiterock Spring, at the base of Whiterock Mesa



Beautiful, clear water at Whiterock Spring


These oddly shaped rocks on Whiterock Mesa looked like bones .



A cairn of "bone rocks"



They don't call it Hardscrabble Mesa for nothing ! *#~/^`* !!





Twin Buttes TH on Hardscrabble Mesa
This was the best, and only, shade tree anywhere nearby .



Jane found an elk legbone while waiting for Billy and me to get into camp .



Billy DESERVED a treat after all those *^#~/` rocks


This young bull wanted Billy's hay .


But "Matador Ricardo" drove him away .

Right after this photo, the bull attacked the small bush you can see behind Dick . While continuously sounding a low , rumbling bawl, he butted and pawed the bush to nothing left of it .

He never came back .

May 7 '08 Roosevelt Bridge: out & back

( Click on a photo to enlarge it to full screen.)

From Frazier Horse Camp we trailered to the north end of the Roosevelt Lake bridge. Just me and Billy McGee again on the trail.

Roosevelt Lake bridge . We did NOT ride across the bridge .

An opportunity for an off-side mount

The Vineyard Trail starts right across the road from the parking area and goes up through an area that was the first camp used by the workmen building the original Roosevelt Dam.

The huge vista of Roosevelt Lake opens up, with the Sierra Anchas in the background .

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Another magnificent view (but I can't remember if it's Apache Lake or Roosevelt ....)

As the trail crests the ridge, narrow Apache Lake comes into view. The twisting roadbed of the Apache Trail (AZ 88) is seen on the opposite side of the lake.

We saw another gila monster in the trail. It was in no hurry. When it finally moved off under a prickly pear cactus, Billy moved ahead. The gila monster hissed; that startled us; Billy flinched and so did I .

One of the sidehill traverses has 3 crossings of talus slope. The shifting rocks under Billy’s feet were a little unsettling on the first one but by the time we had done the third one we were feeling confident.

Mill Ridge TH was lunch and the turnaround point. Everyone I had talked to said that from there on across the shoulder of Four Peaks the trail was very overgrown with heavy brush. I didn’t want to fight that, so I just went to Mill Ridge TH . I will do Four Peaks another time, when it is cleared .

Four Peaks, from the southeast

On the way back, as we were coming across the head of a canyon that comes steeply up out of Apache Lake. There were turkey vultures working the thermals rising out of the canyon. They swept across the hillside below us, barely clearing the tops of the bushes. Eventually they would gain enough altitude to shoot over the top of the ridge and be gone. A pair of red-tail hawks flew through the vulture squadron, kreee-kreeing as they went.

As we were coming very slowly down the steep road/trail back toward the bridge, I saw Dick (the truck and trailer) come across the bridge. He was waiting with a cold A&W for me when I came off the trail !

May 8 '08 Cross F TH south to Sycamore Cr. Crossing

As Bushnell Tanks TH is now closed to all vehicular traffic, and there is not even a horse gate to give access to riders, we camped at the trailhead near the Cross F Ranch on the old section of AZ 87 that travels along Sycamore Creek near Sunflower .

This camp area is very near the creek, with big sycamore trees shading it. At night when the breeze and the birds quiet down, the gurgle of the creek is a nice accompaniment to the soft sounds of the campfire .

A big Arizona Trail sign is along the road just above the campsite. Across the road is the spur trail that leads to the AZT.

Initially the trail is easy to follow, to a gate. Beyond the gate there are cattle trails everywhere!! When we were there the Cross F ranch had just finished branding the new calves. Momma cows and their calves were all over this area. The cows were very tame and unafraid of us so Billy had to go right up to them before they would move over and let us pass.

I did put up some cairns but the cows may inadvertently knock them down, so my advice to future travelers in this area is to go west until you come to the creekbed, and then stay on the east side of the creek as you go north until the trail becomes identifiable again.

The creek was pretty, with clear water flowing under the big juniper trees that hung over the banks. There were big hackberry trees too, and some stunted sycamores .

The trail climbs up into red rimrock type of country where it joins the AZT .

An unusual barrel cactus

I turned left, south, and headed toward Sunflower.

The trail in this area is singletrack for a mile or more and then it joins a seldom used 2 track which eventually travels along the western edge of some very nice homes with pastures and horses.

Clear water moving over solid rock

After passing through two gates, and approaching another one, we saw loose horses ahead. Loose horses usually are at least inquisitive, hopefully not aggressive, toward another horse (or mule) that comes into their view.

I dismounted, because I could be more aggressive toward these other horses if need be, while still keeping control of Billy. There was no trouble, but I did have to drive them away several times.

After going through one of the flimsiest (is that a word?) gates I’ve ever seen, we went under the two double lanes of AZ 87 and came out immediately west of the buildings at Sunflower.

From here on south, until it crosses Sycamore Creek, the trail is all newly constructed

Milage markers hung on a burned juniper

. Well up on the hillside, the view is east, down into the extensive riparian area along the creek. There are so many trees down there that I could hear the wind blowing through them from way up on the hillside where I stopped for lunch. There is a constant twinkle of sunlight on water as it is glimpsed through the trees.

Sycamore Creek as seen from the trail

The trail works it’s way down with gentle grades to a crossing of the creek; watercress and willows in the creek.

Looking upstream from the crossing

The creek crossing was my turnaround point. I decided to go back to Sunflower by following the old roads along the west side of the creek. It was good! An occasional creek crossing, but mostly shuffling through the old sycamore leaves from last year, and passing under the spreading arms of the huge old trees themselves. I think I’ve mentioned that I like the smell of sycamore leaves!

Backtracking under the highway, dealing with the loose horses again, some confusion at a cattle tank, slowly moving through the momma cows and their babies, building a few more cairns, and we were back. A day of easy terrain, some challenges; altogether good .

May 6,'08 2 Bar Ridge TH to Frazier TH

We started this ride near Black Brush Ranch . Black Brush Ranch, 2 Bar Ridge TH, and Frazier TH are all on the south side of Roosevelt Lake, between the lake and the Superstition Mountains .

Corral at the gate to Black Brush Ranch




Across from the corrals is the road leading to 2 Bar Ridge TH



Looking down at the east end of Roosevelt Lake

This day's ride would be down-stream through Cottonwood Canyon (I wonder how many Cottonwood Canyons there are in the Southwest. ) which had sustained significant flood damage last year . There was a sign stating that the trail was not recommended for horses . We knew about this warning, so Dick waited for me to call him before he moved camp, in case Billy and I couldn't get through . Billy and I were solo again .

Upper part of Cottonwood Canyon

Yes, there were some difficult places, but a barefoot mule can do difficult things . I did get off a number of times to be safe, and to make it easier for Billy .


Water was flowing and gurgling into small pools . The cottonwoods and the sycamores are tall in this little canyon . And there are grapevines . A cool and quiet place .

middle Cottonwood Canyon

It is a small canyon; the walls are nearly always visable

I love sycamore trees . Have you ever taken one of the leaves and inhaled it's smell? Very distinctive aroma .



I had been in this canyon before, so I knew when we were getting toward the end of the riparian

section . The canyon held one last challenge .

We came to a point on the trail where it dropped straight down off of an undercut bank; about a 3 1/2 to 4 foot dropoff with flood debris at the bottom . No way around it . We had come so far, mastered so many challenges, I didn't want to go back . The stream bed was choked with dead trees, brush, small boulders; no way to get through it .

Pushing and crashing through live and dead brush to the other bank, I scouted that bank for a possible way out, and around this impassable section of creek . It looked like maybe we could do it, if Billy would follow me . I broke down as much brush as I could, and on my hands and knees, got part way up the hillside . The dirt was dry and loose; 2 steps up and 1 back . "Let's try it; Come on Billy !" He came on; sliding sideways downhill; scrambling ..... trying so hard for me !

We got up to a little crest that then went down into the next sidewash . I found a game trail leading back down into the creek . It was very brushy, but do-able . But now we were again faced with a dropoff of 4 feet with flood debris at the base of it . I could see the nice sandy trail about 10 feet out from the base of this bank.

I thought that maybe I could break down the bank enough for Billy to get down if I sat down and slid off the bank , taking as much of it with me as possible . So I did that, and asked Billy to "Come on down!" And he did . Part way down he seemed to realize that his best option was to jump . He sailed past my face and landed in the trail ! And calmly started eating the grass there . I love this mule .

Shortly after that, we were out of the canyon and onto the little Forest Service road leading to the junction with the trail to Frazier TH .

Roosevelt Lake, after leaving Cottonwood Canyon



Another crested saguaro !


close-up


The marina at Roosevelt Lake, as seen from the F.S. road leading to the junction with Frazier TH



Trail leading to Frazier TH



Frazier Horse Camp, across the highway from Frazier TH
Very close to the shore of Roosevelt Lake



Me and my pals
Photo taken by my best pal, Dick

April 24,'08 Superstitions; Rogers Trough to 2 Bar TH

Rogers Trough, where we started this days ride, is on the SE edge of the Superstition Wilderness .
Unknowing that I was starting the toughest ride of the whole trail so far, I started off at 7:15 in the morning, just as the sun was entering the mountains .

We'll sign the trail register and be ready to go .

Here we go, Billy .

Following a creek down from Rogers Trough, the trail was easy to follow but not always easy to get through . There were a number of rocky step/jump downs, and some fairly heavy brush overhanging the trail in places . But the morning was glorious and I was enjoying being out on the trail .

A pool in the creek just down from the trailhead, the morning sun has not quite arrived here .

After turning up Grave Creek the going became a little more difficult, brushier and rockier . There was clear water flowing in the creek and yellow monkey flowers along the banks .

The climb up to Reavis Pass was often narrow, but the brush was so thick that it would have been difficult to fall very far off the trail . I was glad that I was not leading a pack horse as it would have been hard work to drag a wide pack through that brush . At Reavis Pass there were three or four logs in a clearing; just right for sitting on and taking a rest . (How did they get there ?)

The trail down Reavis Creek toward Reavis Ranch was in and out of ponderosa pine and huge alligater juniper; shady and cool . Access to water in many places in the creek kept Billy hydrated and happy .

I got off of Billy at this log . I climbed over and asked him to come along . He hopped right over it . I love this mule .

This huge,huge old juniper is right next to the trail as you enter the meadows near Reavis Ranch.
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All that remains of the ranch house at Reavis Ranch
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Remains of a loading chute at Reavis Ranch

Another look at the loading chute

The route of the old road that used to come up to the ranch passes along this old pasture and corral area, as well as along the old orchards . This road is now the trail through this area and on into the ranch house site .

The famous apple orchards at Reavis Ranch

Although these trees are never pruned,as you can see, they still produce fruit and people hike up to the ranch to pick it . The trail up from the north side of the mountains is the old road, so it is easier than the trail from Rogers Trough .

From the meadows at Reavis the AZT turns abruptly east, crossing Reavis Creek for the last time, and angling up a stairstep rock bluff . Then on and on over very rocky trails; to imagine the size of rocks think: size of your fist to size of your head, and then some small boulders . But the scenery was wonderful ! Boulder outcroppings, vistas across small canyons with sycamores in the drainages, yuccas blooming, Indian paintbrush, the scent of pinyon pine warmed by the sun ....

And then at Pine Creek, I came upon a camper. A woman alone who had backpacked in and was planning to stay a few days . Pine creek, on the Arizona Trail, is quite remote ! I stopped and talked to her a little while . She was having some trouble with her knee so she was going to rest another day and then take her last ibuprofin and hike out the next day . I had 3 ibuprofin with me so I gave her 2 of them . We exchanged email addresses and I went on down to the creek to let Billy get a drink before we went on . Somehow in our surprise to see anyone else out there, we each forgot to take any photos !

I was beginning to be concerned about the time, so I did not stop for many more pictures .

Walnut Spring (if you can find the water))

The trail went on and on; over ridges and down into drainages; no more water for Billy . We are now 9 hours into the ride .



Up one side and down the other, over the ridges....... great views down north-facing canyons, Apache Lake to the northwest, now Roosevelt Lake to the northeast........... maybe I'm finally on 2 Bar Ridge ?!..... but it goes on and on ........11 hours into the ride .

I was getting concerned that Billy would get too tired, so I began to "tail" up the hills (hold onto his tail and let him pull me up the hills instead of him carrying me up the hills) and led him down the hills . (After I saw how well he recovered from this days work, I know that he did not need this help .) I also took the bit out of his mouth so that he could more easily grab bites of grass without stopping - it had been a long time since "breakfast" . Steering suffered a bit from this arrangement but we managed to get along alright .

Thank goodness we had the satellite phones so I could call Dick in camp and let him know where I was on an hourly basis . But for some reason I was unable to reach him for 2 hours, and it was getting late in the day, so he called Search and Rescue . I was able to get through to him in the next hour, so he canceled Search and Rescue .

The sun was going down; I was still on 2 Bar Ridge . I was well enough prepared that if I had to spend the night out on the trail I knew that I would be okay......but I would rather not do that .

We came onto an old roadbed traversing a side-hill; must be close now ? Around the side of the hill and YES!, the Wilderness Boundry marker ! But no AZT signs to tell me which of the two road options to take . Sense of direction tells me to go east . " T" into another road; it's almost dark; keep going east . I see a hill I recognize from our scouting of the area and I knew we were going to make it into camp that night .

I called Dick again; get the hors d'oeuvres ready, we are almost there ! As I rode into camp I could no longer see the ground from Billy's back . 13 hours on the trail - my personal best (or worst?) .

Camp, the next morning

Me and Jane

The next morning Billy looked like he had not been anywhere ! I, however, had had enough for a while, so we went home .

April 23,'08 Picketpost TH to Rogers Trough TH

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Billy and I are going solo now . I know the first day of this trip very well because Dick and I are Segment Stewards of the north half of what I will ride today (Reavis Trail Canyon).

Starting at Picketpost TH near the town of Superior, the trail crosses under, the now 4 lane, US Highway 60 and soon crosses Queen Creek .

Crossing over the unused railroad tracks from Superior's mining days, the trail is not far from the old cemetery where Wyatt Earp's wife Matty is buried . (Her grave is prominently marked, IF you can find the cemetery .)

Following a long ridge northward, the town of Superior is slowly revealed below and to the southeast . The trail is rocky but well defined with easy grades .

Still many blooms at these lower elevations

Lots of fruits on the wolfberry shrubs



Picketpost Mountain is fading away to the south as we go on.....



Now it has almost disappeared

This line shack has been the staging point for many trail work events on the Reavis Canyon Trail section of the AZT .

Huge tamarisk trees grow beside the corral at the line shack
Billy is checking to see if he might get lucky and find some feed in the old trough .




The view of the line shack from the trail

I would like to be here at blooming time to see the flowers on the tip of the arm on the ground !



How about this one, with the "crest" in it's center ?



On we go .....

Saguaro cactus and sycamore tree in Reavis Trail Canyon

After the easy, gentle climb up through Reavis Trail Canyon, crossing the stream many times, and riding in the shade of the sycamore trees, it's time to "pay the piper"; Montana Mountain ! After interminable, steep switchbacks the trail tops out at approx. 5500 feet, about 2600 feet higher than Superior . Whew ! Poor Billy!

Poor Billy almost to the top (looking east)

Forest Road 650 looked pretty good after that climb . A couple of miles on the road, walking in the shade of huge juniper trees, and we were in camp .

Billy at the hitch rail at Rogers Trough

Our camp at Rogers Trough

At this camp, in the evening, the dogs got "skunked". They had never seen a skunk and were fascinated by this slow, waddling little creature . We convinced it to move on, with some well targeted rocks . The dogs wanted sympathy from us but got " Don't come over near ME !" . The next day they had to ride in the back of the truck, instead of inside like the little princesses that they are .