This trip I am sharing with my long time friend Debbie Zinkl. She is riding her 13 year old Arabian gelding “Gem”.
We started our adventure at Pine TH, near Pine in central Arizona. We rode 17 miles of the historic Highline Trail, finishing the day at Washington Park. The trail was more difficult than we expected: constant up or down, and rocky.
At lunch we had the company of a black timber rattler: black with narrow straw colored stripes. It blended perfectly with the black dirt and the straw colored dead pine needles.
We saw turkeys with their young; and a bear track on the trail! (But no bear!)
We were SO glad to see Dick at the nice camp that he had set up in the shade of the pine trees! ( Jane had heard us coming and ran out to meet us on the trail and followed us in to camp.) Beef stroganoff for dinner and pudding for dessert!
THURSDAY
Up onto the Rim on the Colonel Devin Trail . The lower parts of the trail are along the springs that start the East Verde River. Ponderosa pines,Douglas firs, maples, oaks, raspberries, wild roses, columbines….WOW!
And then comes the final assault!! Only about 1/3 of a mile but VERY steep and VERY rocky!I tailed up it while Debbie rode ahead of Billy so that he would have someone to follow and therefore keep going. But we had to stop at frequent intervals so that I could get my pulse and respiration down a little bit.
At the top we met Chuck Horner, an AZT Trail Steward. He was waiting for the district forest ranger and they were going to begin scouting a reroute for this awful piece of trail that Debbie and I had just done. We will be there to help you Chuck when it is time to do the work!!
From there for the next few miles the trail location could not be more beautiful! It follows one of the tributaries of East Clear Creek. A small canyon with a flat floor of meadows with a stream of clear water running through it. Again, the pine trees, the fir trees, maples, and oaks, and now aspens too. And the flowers: lots of columbines, wild roses, wild iris, and watercress in the stream.
After we left this beautiful little canyon, the terrain flattened out and the trail wove through Ponderosa pine forest to the edge of the East Clear Creek Canyon.A Boy Scout troop had built really nice steps down the steep hillside into the canyon. The steps were perfect for people but we we're on horses and the narrow treads were very difficult for our animals to negotiate. We were so glad to be on very experienced animals who did not panic and just worked it out and got us down to the canyon floor.
Then a steep climb out the other side and in an hour we were again enjoying a shady camp, a cold drink, and then a nice shower, thanks to Dick.
FRIDAY
Today is “day in camp”, resting ourselves and Billy and Gem .
So the highlight of the day is the meals. (Got to brag on Dick .) French toast and fried potatoes and sausage and OJ and French Press coffee for breakfast. I see him over there stirring pudding for tonight. He says it’s spaghetti and meatballs for dinner.
We are camped at approximately 7500’. A phenomenon that I had forgotten about is how the air feels cool but the sun is so intense and hot. So we are “shaded up”.
SATURDAY
Last night's camp was along the road into Blue Ridge Reservoir near Clint's Well on Highway 87. There were a lot of other campers and some illegal campfires (fire restrictions in effect). Forest Service law enforcement came along checking camps and issued a number of citations.
We rode out early; we had a long day ahead. The trail was mostly level, good footing well cleared by the Segment Steward. There was even a stretch that had been "paved" with crushed white rock. It had to have been wheel barrowed in by hand!! The rock is probably a really good thing after rains! And it was nice for us too.
We were able to do some trotting, winding through the Ponderosas. We rode quietly along here, hopng to see elk. Last fall Dick and I had been here and there were so many elk bugles going on at night that I had to get into the motorhome so that I could sleep! I never knew that there could be so many variations of elk bugles!
Last night's camp was along the road into Blue Ridge Reservoir near Clint's Well on Highway 87. There were a lot of other campers and some illegal campfires (fire restrictions in effect). Forest Service law enforcement came along checking camps and issued a number of citations.
We rode out early; we had a long day ahead. The trail was mostly level, good footing well cleared by the Segment Steward. There was even a stretch that had been "paved" with crushed white rock. It had to have been wheel barrowed in by hand!! The rock is probably a really good thing after rains! And it was nice for us too.
We were able to do some trotting, winding through the Ponderosas. We rode quietly along here, hopng to see elk. Last fall Dick and I had been here and there were so many elk bugles going on at night that I had to get into the motorhome so that I could sleep! I never knew that there could be so many variations of elk bugles!
We dropped off the high plateau and came down past a couple of FS campgrounds with a stand of big aspens between them. Along here we encountered a group of young men running through the forest; they seemed to be a training run (firefighters?). Billy and Gem were not bothered by the runners coming at them on the trail.
We crossed Highway 87 on it's way to Winslow, and shortly after that the trail led down into a grassy floored little canyon where the sun was just beginning to penetrate - grand mature Ponderosa, some Aspen with their leaves fluttering in the morning breeze. Fun rolling terrain, and then dropped down into a shallow canyon with aspens and a grassy floor.Dick met us at two different forest road crossings, so we could offer Billy and Gem a drink, not knowing where the next chance might be for them. They were glad to accept.
The next 6 hours were not so much fun. The trail was mostly rocky roads. There were some good sized dirt tanks for water for "the boys". One of them had an elk in the middle of it getting a drink; another had turkeys just leaving.
We were REALLY glad to see Dick at the shady campsite that he had set up for us. This camp was at Bargaman Lake; think big meadow. Dick wasn't feeling well, so after a time of trying to be a good sport and ask about our day, he finally had to go to bed. Debbie and I stayed up til our usual bedtime of 8:00.
SUNDAY
This morning there were elk in the meadow (Gem was on high alert!) Most of them were bulls: from young "spikes" to mature, magnificent full grown bulls. I was surprised at how much antler growth they had at this, what I thought, early in the year.
We had had enough of rocky footing so we trailered to Allen Lake to start this day's ride. And it was worth it, good footing, easy terrain, grassy meadows, huge Ponderosa, trail well marked. Some of the trail is on old railroad beds from the days of logging beginning in the late 1800's.
Saw more elk and turkeys. The
occasional aspen really stands out
Ten easy, fun miles took us to Mormon Lake Lodge where Dick had camp set up under the pine trees near the arena.
It was nice to be in "civilization" with hot showers with copious amounts of hot water. Debbie suggested that we "wash" our shirts by stomping them underfoot while in the shower. It worked pretty well! Dusty camps and dusty trails were taking their toll on our wardrobe!
And Debbie treated us to dinner at the lodge! And margueritas!
MONDAY
Poor Gem ; there were elk in the meadow here too!"High Alert ! High Alert! They're right over there, just across the fence!!"
This morning there were elk in the meadow (Gem was on high alert!) Most of them were bulls: from young "spikes" to mature, magnificent full grown bulls. I was surprised at how much antler growth they had at this, what I thought, early in the year.
We had had enough of rocky footing so we trailered to Allen Lake to start this day's ride. And it was worth it, good footing, easy terrain, grassy meadows, huge Ponderosa, trail well marked. Some of the trail is on old railroad beds from the days of logging beginning in the late 1800's.
Saw more elk and turkeys. The
occasional aspen really stands outTen easy, fun miles took us to Mormon Lake Lodge where Dick had camp set up under the pine trees near the arena.
It was nice to be in "civilization" with hot showers with copious amounts of hot water. Debbie suggested that we "wash" our shirts by stomping them underfoot while in the shower. It worked pretty well! Dusty camps and dusty trails were taking their toll on our wardrobe!
And Debbie treated us to dinner at the lodge! And margueritas!
MONDAY
Poor Gem ; there were elk in the meadow here too!"High Alert ! High Alert! They're right over there, just across the fence!!"
After climbing back up to the AZT, we continued north. And we encountered the elk bands that were moving up through the forest after having been down on the meadows during the night. Mostly they were the bachelor herds, young bulls and mature bulls. We could hear them communicating to each other with little mewing sounds. The cow/calf herds were more skittish.
We went through a campground where a small bridge crossed a small stream. Neither Billy or Gem wanted anything to do with that bridge. To them, crossing the stream was obviously a much better choice.
Continuing on, there were occasional 
views of the huge meadow that is Mormon Lake.
We could see what was possibly a marshy place in the middle, but by far the majority of the "lake" is a meadow, a HUGE meadow.
views of the huge meadow that is Mormon Lake.We could see what was possibly a marshy place in the middle, but by far the majority of the "lake" is a meadow, a HUGE meadow.
There were streches of the trail that followed more segments of old railroad embankments,
built out of the native rough volcanic rock. The old railroad ties
are still there and an occasional spike too.The Ponderosas begin to open up and there are many small clearings in the trees.
And then the first look at the San Francisco Peaks, north of Flagstaff ! Dick met us at the road
going into Mormon Lake Lodge- lunch for us and hay and water for Billy and Gem.
Then up onto Anderson Mesa: rocky, interminable Anderson Mesa. More elk, AND a herd of
pronghorns! Another interesting thing on Anderson Mesa is that
the trail has been re-routed to the edge of the mesa to look down on the meadow-valley of the Lake Mary's.
Then around the Lowell Observatory, a short pretty trail down, and we arrrived at Marshall
Lake and Dick and
Jesse and Jane and camp. 9 1/2 hours on the trail.
(Marshall Lake is SSE of Flagstaff.)
TUESDAY
The trail leaving Marshall Lake is again "paved" with crushed white rocks. ( We're still on
Anderson Mesa.) But it is much more interesting country as the trail goes in and out of small swales, and twists and winds.During one of these winding swales, I was following Debbie, when suddenly there were little birds flying past her at about eye level. When I got to that point I could see that these birds were coming out of a hole in a small wizened little oak tree. They were fledging!! And we were there at the exact moment to see it!! WOW!!
Finally leaving Anderson Mesa, and going down into Walnut Canyon where there are aspen
trees and sandy footing.Here's Debbie with the San Francisco Peaks in the background.
We met a gal on a big gaited horse, ripping along with her wolf dog. ( Corrine thinks it was Kathy Batson. )
Climbing out at Fischer Point, we met some elder hikers who had stopped at the view point at
the top. We tied up the animals and sat down with the hikers to enjoy the view into Walnut Canyon.Walnut Canyon is east of Flagstaff, and is the site of Indian cliff dwellings at Walnut Canyon National Monument.
The AZT follows the north rim of Walnut Canyon, in and out of the drainages that feed the
canyon.
The elevation is high enough to have Douglas fir growing as well as aspen.
The day was a little hot, so it was really wonderful to get to where Dick was meeting us and find that he had bought a WATERMELON! It tasted so good! and Billy and Gem enjoyed the rinds.
We finished the days ride at Walnut Canyon TH but camping is not allowed there, so we went to the fairgrounds in Flagstaff to camp.
WEDNESDAY
Camping at the fairgrounds; nice people, good shade, water.
Jane's watching a squirrel in the tree.
Debbie had never been to see the cliff dwellings at Walnut Canyon Nat. Mon., so we started our day there before it got too hot. The ruins are on a sandstone penninisula that juts out into Walnut Canyon. There are quite a number of steps to go down, and of course back up , so we wanted to do that early in the day.
